Straight from tha muthaf@#%kin streets of Locash!!

It is no secret that urban apparel is the product of the streets, but does that make it streetwear? The answer to this question at first glance may appear to be a resounding YES! However, when one considers that of the four traditional urban labels, Sean John, Rocawear, Enyce and Ecko, none would likely be found in the wardrobe of the typical streetwear enthusiast. On the other hand, newer labels such as LRG and Crooks & Castles are common in both urban boutiques and those catering to the more traditional streetwear crowd. So what’s the difference?

I presume there are many reasons for this. The labels such as Rocawear and Sean John are mass produced and mass marketed – available in both boutiques and large retail chains such as Athlete’s World – whereas LRG and Crooks tend to shun mall life. Secondly, I find that the standard urban labels tend not to be terribly creative as to what they place on their t-shirts, opting rather to rely on the simple logo tee - although Sean John does depart from the rest in this respect. Additionally, the cut of urban tees tends to be slightly larger in order to accommodate the “thug” crowd, however the newer labels appear to be grading their shirts according to standard sizing, therefore giving them appeal to crowds who prefer to wear their size. Rocawear has addressed this through their “custom fit” line, but you still won’t find these garments in any boutique specializing in streetwear.

At the end of the day, streetwear, regardless of whether it draws roots from the urban or skateboard worlds, isn’t something that is available to the masses through outlets such as Macy’s. Ultimately, this is what disqualifies core urban labels from being considered streetwear as even one of the newest labels, Coogi, is available in department stores (granted, Coogi is a welcome breath of fresh air as they bring a completely new look to urban fashion). Within this context, one has to really respect LRG, for despite their tremendous popularity over the past few years they have chosen to maintain their underground appeal rather than kowtow to the call of the mainstream. Strangely the situation of urban apparel parallels the state of hip hop, most artists go out of their way to do what sells, rather than join the few who stay true to themselves and do it for those who truly love the art.

Elements of Streetwear

Streetwear, as observed by Stephen Vogel in his aptly titled book Streetwear, defies definition since, as a by product of street culture, it exists in a state of constant evolution. He goes on to contend that anything which draws its roots from street culture shall be considered streetwear. This assertion muddies the waters somewhat in the sense that there are many lines out there which do indeed have roots in the street, however one would be hard pressed to consider them streetwear. Somewhere in their evolution these lines have managed to alienate the crowd that first paved their road to mainstream appeal. For this reason, I would like to outline certain characteristics that separate streetwear from what becomes considered mainstream fashion.

To begin with, the core of streetwear has always been, and likely will always be, the graphic tee. It is through this medium that one can truly see what sets street fashion apart from the generic looking tees of the mainstream. This is evident in the originality and creativity found in the graphics. Rather than simply branding the shirt, streetwear companies have blessed their products with clever phrases and /or images that bestow emotional appeal upon the shirt, distinctly absent from the larger brands.

A second characteristic, which was truer today than ten years ago due to the advent of the internet, is a degree of exclusivity. True streetwear is the domain of specialty boutiques and not found in the mall – although I do recall buying a Stussy shirt in a mall in the early 90s. Stussy has since corrected this error and managed to become hugely successful while maintaining its legitimacy in the street. Traditionally streetwear has been reserved for those with their ear to the ground and by the time a once exclusive label reached the mainstream, those in the know had long since moved onto the next one. It is this concept of exclusivity which essentially disqualifies brands with street origins that are readily available in malls and places like Athletes World.

Finally, streetwear companies dare to tread where no others will and are continually pushing the boundaries of what some folk would consider “decency.” This is evident even in the names of companies such as FUCT and Fucking Awesome. Not to mention graphics and sayings that express political opinions, social commentary and elements of a more risqué nature. Essentially, streetwear companies aim to stay true to themselves by not compromising their values out of fear of upsetting the powers that be. It is this radical attitude that separates streetwear from the generic fashion designed for the masses.

Private Party footage finally released

Finally! Here's the video footage from the JUZD by-invite-only Private Party in February. For those that didn't get a chance to go, watch out for the next JUZD event.

JUZD team at Magic / Pool / Project shows in Las Vegas

From February 12th to the 15th the JUZD team was in Las Vegas checking out North America's premiere fashion trade shows, MAGIC, POOL, and PROJECT. Despite the predicting US recession the buyers were spending and spending lots. It was a good season for the brands we visited. Above photo (Jing Liu aka me! [lead designer of JUZD Bamboo Streetwear], Masahiko Nakane aka Polo [owner of Panty Japan], Christian Audigier, Yuichi Ishii [buyer for Panty Japan])



Once again Christian Audigier was the talk of the show.With the largest booth at Project, guest stars, naked (but artistically painted) girls, swimsuit models, and a performance by Snoop, Christian Audigier's booth was the spot to chill. Christian Audigier also premiere his latest label Crystal Rock, named after his daughter.


The colorful Creative Recreation showcased its new sneaker collection and style for Fall. While smaller labels such as Shmack Footwear were making head waves and extending their distribution for the fist time to Japan.

I was able to check out Raw 7. It maintained it's high end grudge style. It brought its unique style of art to sandals and underwear (which I got samples of woohoo). Another brand that caught my eye was Hard 8, an up and coming brand out of LA. It has simliar grunge style as Raw 7 and strong symbolic designs. What was also great was the overall fit and design of the shirts. It fits and feels really good and the designs was perfect for the shirt.

Pool was also a very interesting experience. It was one big chilling lounge. Lots of cool and funky brands. Alternative Apparel was a major sponsor, they were giving out free t-shirts, hats, and other cool stuff. But one of the most interesting brand is Cyberoptix Tie Lab. They print designs on ties and their creativity and craftmanship are amazing. Had a chance to talk to Bethany who is the principle designer and she's a really nice girl. It's not the usual silk suit ties I'm use to.

As for Magic, the big show, it wasn't all that interesting...to me anyways. Lots of huge brands. As for the streetwear section, it was like night clubs, with girls in skimpy outfits handing out flyers. But that's the streetwear culture. I prefer the class of Project.

Overall it was a very enlightening trip and I had a lot of fun. We are currently trying to get a booth at the Project show in August. Come check us out!

JUZD Private Party was a success!

On February 6th 2008, JUZD hosted it's very first private party for Toronto's elite, tastemakers, trendsetters, buyers, and social media. The night featured the spinnings of DJ T-Wrecks, and amazing performances from the ABS Crew and Poizunus. In addition, the crowd was amongst the first to preview the JUZD Spring/Summer 08 and Fall/Winter 08/09 collections. It was an event to remember!

For more photos visit JUZD Streetwear online

Photographers: Krist Papas, Vivian Hui, and Daniel Merhar

Fashion is superficial! JUZD is not.

I was talking to a friend who have been in the fashion industry for a long time. He was part of the urban streetwear fashion scene when it first started in the 80's. A very powerful thing he told me was: "fashion is superficial, this is different, when people wear a JUZD shirt they are making a statement, they are making a difference."

Up to that point I never thought of our JUZD bamboo shirts being that. We didn't start using bamboo because we wanted to save the planet. Nor did we use bamboo, the most eco-friendly fabric to jump on the eco-friendly bandwagon. Heck, I don't even like the word "eco-friendly"...it's just too happy...too friendly, I prefer eco-conscious. But I do have a lot of respect for nature and wanted to create a brand that's organic that goes deep into the spirit and innate power of the individual. And using bamboo is part of that philosophy.

Two things can happen. One, people buy JUZD because it's eco-friendly (They want to help save the planet or because it's trendy). Or people feel passionate about the JUZD philosophy and brand and buy it for that reason. Either way I'll be happy because you and I will have made a difference, intended or not.

Flow or mad? Opposites yet the same

We are close to finishing the Fall 08 09 collection. We are excited! If you like the Spring Summer 08 collection, you'll be amazed at the Fall 08 09. I'm not just saying this to hype it up, if I wasn't passionate about the collection I wouldn't of created it.

For the Fall 08 09 collection I wanted to go back to my roots. I was born and spent most of my early childhood in China. Bamboo itself is a very powerful cultural symbol there. This collection goes back to that, it is Asian inspired. A careful mashup of Asian symbols and art with contemporary grunge and style of streetwear and fashion.

JUZD Fall 08 09 Theme

JUZD is a state of mind. When you wear a JUZD shirt you become your alpha persona, you become unstoppable.

This state can take 2 opposite forms but it’s one state. Like Yin and Yang there is Flow and Mad.

Flow, is a state when you are calm and smooth. Able to have sharp focus and become one with everything around you. You are in control, you are like water. Everything is calm, peaceful, and at an equilibrium.

Mad on the contrary is not a peaceful state. It is a very aggressive and physical state. It is a mission critical moment where force must be used. Your body is pumped, and you use your adrenaline and aggression to your advantage. In this state nothing mentally and physically can stop you. This is a dangerous and unstable state. There is a constant battle in the minds between the demons and oneself. This is a state where you must destroy to create.

While these are opposite states they are one. They are the moments when you become unstoppable.

For each design there is a flow version and a mad version. You will amazed to see the opposite of each and realize it is the same.

Preview!

The first public showing of the collection will take place during the Toronto L’oreal Fashion Week, Wednesday March 19th, 2007 at Maro. Make sure to join our email list to get a personal evite.